Skin Care

Skin Care

Mind, Emotions and the Skin

By Ben Fuchs | Pharmacist Ben

One of the most underappreciated aspects of skincare involves its relationship to the mind, emotions and the skin. Technically called “psychodermatology” this aspect of cutaneous health is being recognized more and more as a fundamental, if underappreciated cause of dermatological diseases. Psychodermatology recognizes that the skin, the brain, and the body’s defense (immune) system that deals with survival threats (real or imagined), are in reality three parts of one system. That means that if you are dealing with acne, psoriasis, eczema, vitiligo or any other skin heath issue, you should consider looking at it as the result of a real or imagined survival threat. By far the most important sources of these threats are not actual. They are mental and emotional. In other words, in the majority of threatening situations, our survival is not actually at risk, we simply “believe” it is! However, while these threats may only exist as thoughts and feelings they can and do manifest themselves as real physical effects such as itching and rashes (eczema), inflammation (psoriasis), oiliness (acne), and changes in pigmentation (melasma).

Mind, Emotions and the Skin

By Ruth Ellison (Flickr), via Wikimedia Commons

If you go to a doctor, his management options according to the medical journal “American Family Physician” include “…psychotropic medication, stress management courses, and referral to a psychiatrist.” No surprise there. As always, the medical model focuses on symptoms and not the causes. But, not only are these particular interventions not necessary for effectively addressing dermatological reactions associated with mental and emotional health, you don’t need a doctor at all to deal with a skin condition caused by an activated stress management system. Aside from the avoiding of physical stress systems triggers like food allergens and topical irritants, reduction and elimination of psychological triggers is your best skin health strategy for eliminating psychodermatological reactions.
When obsessive troublesome thoughts hit, don’t believe them! And, don’t resist them. After all they’re not truths, they’re not even false! They are in actuality nothing more than a neural flux that forever flows and ebbs. Ultimately, despite the apparent vividness of the stories they tell, thoughts and their associated emotions are the result of sodium and potassium ions flowing across nerve cell membranes. Nothing more, nothing less. Simply watch as they appear, and then disappear. Also, recognize that there is a huge difference between thought ‘watching” and thought “thinking”. Rather than thinking thoughts, watch them as they inevitably and endlessly rise and fall. Just watch. Then notice how feelings immediately follow the thoughts, and watch those as well.

The stress survival response can be neutralized by an equally potent relaxation response. Learning to activate this relaxation system is the most helpful technique for withstanding and overriding the stress response. The body is a system and when it is stresses it is stressed as a system. And, when it relaxes it relaxes as a system. When any one part of the relaxation system is activated the entire body goes into relaxation mode and the stress response is suppressed all over the body. For example, simply by lightly touching an area of the skin, such as the palms of the hand or the soles of the feet, you can activate a bodywide, systemic relaxation response. Closing your eyes and turning them upwards toward the center of your forehead can accomplish the same global effect. Likewise with listening and focusing on the heartbeat.

Watching thoughts and emotions also tends to activate the relaxation nervous system. In fact, any neutral watching will turn on this system. That’s why we like TV and movies so much. We relax when we naturally observe. The same phenomena can be exploited via watching thoughts and feelings. Another one of the most powerful ways to activate the relaxation nervous system is to practice deep breathing techniques. Slow deep into the belly expanding of the abdominal muscles on the inhale and a long powerful exhale (slowly and gently exhaling the lungs out as much as you can, as you pull your belly in). The relaxation response is activated by the exhale, so spend a little more time on the exhale than the inhale.

Posted by Ben Fuchs in Skin Care

Skin Cells Making Vitamin D

By Ben Fuchs | Pharmacist Ben

These days anyone with even the slightest interest in nutrition knows that skin cells are capable of making vitamin D. But there’s a lot more to the story than that! The skin and skin cells are the sites for a lot of interesting chemistry. In addition to being just plain fascinating, knowing about it can have practical health benefits.

Skin Cells Making Vitamin D

By Daniel de Souza Telles (File:HumanSkinDiagram.xcf), via Wikimedia Commons

When we think of skin cells making vitamin D, typically we think of the vitamin D that is distributed throughout the body, and for good reason. After skin cells make vitamin D, the blood and the lymphatic system suck much of it away and send it down to the liver for initial activation. Then to the kidney for final activation, and ultimately to the general circulation for use throughout the body. But as it turns out skin cells don’t only make Vitamin D for the rest of the body, they also make it for themselves. They don’t just make it, they listen to it too! In other words, they are sensitive to the presence of the vitamin D they make. In addition to the aforementioned stabilization of their growth and control of their differentiation, Vitamin D can also reduce and stabilize the secretion of inflammatory factors. Skin cells that are not differentiating properly and also dividing, squirt out chemicals that alert the immune system. This causes the inflammation that is associated with the plaques of psoriasis. Vitamin D, via its secretion stabilizing effect on the fast growing immature skin cells can also have anti-inflammatory benefits.

Here is something else interesting about the skin and Vitamin D. For the most part, the liver and the kidneys are the two main sites of vitamin D activation. However, recently it has come to the attention of researchers that skin cells can activate vitamin D, too! The exact same chemistry that activates Vitamin D in the liver, and then super activates it in the kidney, occurs in the skin as well. In fact, there is more activation chemistry in skin cells than there is in any other cells of the body. All of this means that skin cells are the only cells in the entire body, where every single thing can happen, that can happen to Vitamin D. Skin cells can make Vitamin D, they can process Vitamin D, they can use Vitamin D, and they can activate vitamin D. What’s more, the skin will make more vitamin D as it needs more Vitamin D, as long as it’s in the presence of the sun. And it makes less when it needs less. The presence of vitamin D acts as a negative feedback stimulus that slows down further production. And conversely, the absence of Vitamin D acts as a trigger to increase production. Just another example of the incredible, built in, intelligence of the cells that comprise the human body. All of this is to say the skin route, i.e; activation of the skin cells’ Vitamin D manufacturing “machinery” by the sun, is ALWAYS going to be the best way to make sure you have enough of this critical biochemical . This is extra especially true if you have liver or kidney issues, digestive issues, your gall bladder removed, have diabetes or any kind of blood sugar issues; all of which can affect the liver and kidneys.

Here is something else interesting. The vitamin D made by the skin cells, turns around and stimulates the cells that made it to make anti-cancer compounds like something called Tumor Necrosis Factor (TNF). Necrosis is a medical term for death, and that’s what TNF is to cancer cells. TNF kills cancer! Skin cell produced Vitamin D also stimulates the production of interferon, a second potent anti-cancer chemical. That means the more sun exposure you get the more Vitamin D your skin cells make, and the more Vitamin D your skin cells make, the more anti-cancer skin protective compounds your skin cells produce. And as if that weren’t enough, Vitamin D is actually a natural sunscreen that not only screens the body from UV radiation better than any sunscreen you can put in a pharmacy, but unlike store bought sunscreens, it has no toxicity. It is especially protective against DNA and RNA damage, it permits solar induced Vitamin D production to continue, and it provides the body with immune enhancing anti-cancer benefits too!

Posted by Ben Fuchs in Skin Care

For Your Skin

By Ben Fuchs | Pharmacist Ben

The gold standard topical skin lightening ingredient is called Hydroquinone (HQ). It’ rally toxic stuff, but in small concentrations it can be an effective skin bleaching agent. If you really want to get some good effects you’re probably going to have to use 6 or 8 or even 10 percent strengths. If you want to know how effective this stuff is, just look at a picture of Michael Jackson after 2001 or so. From what I heard along the medical/dermatological grapevine, was that he was a using a super strong version of hydroquinone that was not available in the United States, and that’s where he got that white pasty look that was so striking. If you really want to lighten your skin you can probably get some good results with 4 or maybe 5 percent strength which a compounding pharmacist can prepare for you as long as you have you have a prescription Caution however, hydroquinone is toxic to the cells that make pigment, so-called melanocytes and you can actually permanently disable these very important skin components (the pigment that they make has anti aging and sun protection properties) in your attempt to lighten dark spots.

SkinAnother less toxic skin lightening choice is retinoic acid (RA) which is a form of Vitamin A. I like using retinoic acid because not only will it lighten dark spots in a more benign fashion than HQ, but you can also use it to improve the appearance and formation of wrinkles and sun damage. It does, however, like the higher strengths of hydroquinone, require a prescription. In my pharmacy we actually make several compounded products that feature RA that are available by prescription. One particularly effective product is a combination of hydroquinone at 8 per cent with retinoic acid at 0.05 per cent. We also add hydrocortisone to reduce some of the irritation that the hydroquinone can cause.

Then there’s a third topical skin lightener that is pretty effective and I have to say that it’s one of my favorite skin lightener. It’s effective for lightening the skin and it helps protect the skin from environmental assaults from the sun and it’s important for helping stimulate the production of anti-aging fibers like collagen. I’m talking about topical Vitamin C. And, if you use the fat soluble form of Vitamin C which is called ascorbyl palmitate you can also get some nice skin moisturizing properties as well. There’s another form of fat soluble Vitamin C that is super effective for skin lightening and it’s a great moisturizer too. It’s called ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and it’s really nice. The only problem with this form of Vitamin C is that it’s really expensive and you do need pretty high concentrations for it to work as a skin lightener, at least 10 percent and there are not a lot of companies that can afford to put that much in their product. Then there’s a new form of Vitamin C called ethyl ascorbate. This stuff is expensive too, but you only need around 1 percent or so to get some good skin lightening.

So the best topical skin lightening ingredients are basically going to be Vitamins A and C but you have to make sure they are in the correct forms if you want effective skin lightening. Retinoic acid or retinol for Vitamin A and ethyl ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate or ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate for Vitamin C. If course, hydroquinone is effective too, but its toxicity really makes it a less viable alternative than Vitamins A and C.

Then there are the other skin lightening ingredients that only have moderate effects. I’m only mentioning these because you will see them in many over-the counter products. Probably the best of these is niacin, Vitamin B3 which is a nice skin care ingredient for a lot of things, especially acne. One of the signs of niacin deficiency is skin rashes so clearly the skin is using niacin to maintain it’s health. And recently it was discovered that you can get some of these benefits by applying niacin topically. As mentioned, topical niacin has been shown to be effective for treating acne , and you may want to dissolve a niacin tablet in water and use it as an acne mist. There are several skin care lines that are featuring niacin, and if you have blotchy skin or dark spots associated with acne this is something you might want to try.

One of the best ways to lighten the skin is to use plain old alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Now most people have heard of the most famous AHA glycolic acid by now, it’s been around in the over-the-counter skin care world for over 20 years and a lot longer in the medical realm. glycolic acid is the prototype example of the AHA family of chemicals (others include citric acid, malic acid, acetic acid and lactic acid) and all of these substances have some really important, interesting and helpful roles to play in skin health. In fact I would go as far as to say that alpha hydroxy acids are among the three most important ingredients you can ever use on your skin, along with Vitamin A and Vitamin C. The literature and research that is out on these substances is absolutely overwhelming. And these are research articles that have out for decades. Medical professionals have been using glycolic Acid for 50 years. I remember when I first started out in the skin care business, I had a doctor I was working with, who loved this stuff. He had me making all kinds of glycolic acid products on a prescription basis and he swore by the stuff. Then AHA products came out as over the counter in the early 90’s and the cat was out of the bag; they basically revolutionized the skin care business. AHAs are to this day, the gold standard of active anti aging ingredients, the skin care substances that all ingredients are compared to. They basically up-regulate every single marker of skin health that you could name including improving collagen synthesis, hyaluronic acid synthesis, they improve moisture factor production helping skin stay soft and hydrated . They improve fine lines and wrinkles and they are excellent for helping remove pigmented skin.

There’s a couple of different ways you can use alpha hydroxy acids to lighten the skin. The best way is to go to an esthetician and have a skin peel done. In fact if you’re really interested in anti-aging for the skin you should find yourself a good esthetician and have regular skin peel treatments done say every 2 to 4 weeks. You can also go the slower route and get yourself a good alpha hydroxy acid product a cleanser or toner are the best and use them at home. The trick to using good alpha hydroxy acid products is you want to look for a low pH. There are a lot of these things out there, but in my experience, the acidity of most is not very satisfactory. The pH is a measurement of how acid something is and the pH scale runs from 0 to 14 where the lower numbers are acid and the higher numbers are not acid. 7 is considered neutral and skin’s normal pH is slightly acidic around 5 or 6. For an alpha hydroxy acid product to be useful for anti aging or removing pigment, it has to be lower that the skin’s normal pH. Maybe around 3 or 4. Most alpha hydroxy acid products that you buy in the department store are not going to be that low, so you probably want to go to an esthetician that you can trust to but alpha hydroxy acid products that are going to work. In any case, I like using AHA products to lighten the skin topically, because of all the extra benefits that you get. In addition to improving the tone and color of the skin alpha hydroxy acid products can soften and smooth and generally make the skin look a lot better. I personally use an AHA cleanser every day and then I do an AHA peel on my skin once every 7 to 10 days. Another benefit to using alpha hydroxy acid cleansers and toners is that they help improve the penetration of topical vitamins. The two most important topical vitamins for the skin are vitamin C and vitamin A and as we’ve said both of these are also good skin lighteners. They’re also the most effective skin vitamins for general skin health and anti-aging, and between these three ingredients, alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin A and vitamin c you have the three most important skin care ingredients you can ever use. I always tell my patients that if you are stranded on a desert island and you can only bring three ingredients with you, if you bring AHAs Vitamin A and Vitamin C, you’ll be all set!

Posted by Ben Fuchs in Skin Care

The Skin Law of DermoDynamics

By Ben Fuchs | Pharmacist Ben

The movement of the skin follows a regular set of principle or laws. Because the Universe is holofractal, we see these same laws repeated in different manifestations in different systems. A system in this model is defined as a group of interacting, interrelated, or interdependent elements forming a complex whole. There are many different kinds of systems. There are molecular systems, religious systems cellular systems, political systems solar systems. There are an almost infinite amount of systems we could think of but they all have certain things in common. One of the most important commonality involves how systems grow and utilize energy. They all do it the same way using the same principles or laws.

Skin Law DermoDynamicsThis is true whether that system is a biological system a botanical system, a political system, a philosophical system whatever. These laws were described from a physics perspective (which studied the movement of large objects like planets as well as smaller objects like billiard balls) as thermodynamics and because the laws of thermodynamics have been regarded as the most accurate and fundamental and precise ever developed, I find it helpful to describe the same principles as they apply to the skin I call these laws of skin movement “DermoDynamics”.

Now the principle of thermodynamics, set down in the 19th century, when science started to get good at making and moving things, are basically about movement and the utilization of energy. The same is true about DermoDynamics except for we apply the principles of movement and energy to the living system we call the skin, whereas thermodynamics applies it mostly non-living inanimate “bodies” (planets and such). We basically want to understand utilization and exploitation of energy; when to take it in when to not take it in and growth; how to maximize it.

While the skin is not only a biological system (it is also a quantum system that utilizes principles other than thermodynamics), it still responds very positively to bio-manipulation at the thermo/dermodynamic level. Thus it is important for anyone who wants to maximize his ability to ‘grow” tissue to understand how this works.

The first law of DermoDynamics tells us that matter and energy are conserved In other words unless a system is open to and receiving new energy, matter will always stay at the same level. There will always be just as much “stuff” as there is now. It may get rearranged, but it will always be the same amount. It’s can’t come and go unless the system somehow opens up and becomes not only receptive to more energy, but actually absorbs it as well. Now remember, ours is a holograph fractal universe, which simply means that the same principles, characteristics and qualities show up across different and diverse fields of interest. Historically this has been called “The Law of Correspondence”. For example, if your mind is closed, the same thoughts will keep circulating round and round. If there are no new ideas, growth and evolution cannot occur. I call this phenomenon “Old Man’s Disease”. I first noticed it in old men although I have subsequently found it’s symptoms in young people and women as well. Old Man’s Disease is marked by a substantially closed mind that manifests in an “I know everything” attitude. This is a classic manifestation of first law conservation at work and is a sign that no new energy is being input (in this case into the brain/mind) and thus no new growth is occurring. The brain remains plastic well into old age if it is open to new energy. This is called neuroplasticity and it essentially shows up as a more facile brain with better cognitive, reading and memory skills. Circulation and oxygen metabolism can be up-regulated as well. All of the markers of good mental facility are can be increased. Growth depends upon new inputs of energy because growth means more organization, coherence, and “stuff”. This means more efficient and more economical use of energy. No growth or evolution or complexity can develop in a closed system because in such a system matter is conserved. As it regards the mind, this connection between energy and growth/complexity/organization can be called “thinkodynamics” .

Evolution does not like genetic inbreeding for the same reason. Evolution requires an opening of the family system. That’s why incest is so taboo. It produces defective offspring because evolution is a type of growth and growth does not occur in a closed system. Where can it grow to? Growth and movement and increases in complexity in response to opening a system also have a correspondence in terms of healthy skin. This is The First Law of DermoDynamics.

While the first law of thermodynamics says that matter is conserved in a closed system (which means growth does not occur in a closed system), The first law of DermoDynamics says skin matter is conserved and unless something is put on the skin that will input energy into it, in other words opening it up, because matter is conserved, growth cannot occur. In other word, the system has to be opened up by inserting energy into it. If energy is put into the system, it grows and that biological fact can be exploited to produce healthier, younger, more attractive skin. For what is attractive in skin? When you boil it down to its fundamentals, what we call healthy beautiful skin is really skin that is in it’s anabolic building stage. That’s what young skin signals, and that’s what signals young skin. “Hi there, I’m thriving and youthful( subtext: let’s make a baby)”.” The fact that this message is being sent through our eyes into our judgment areas (where decisions a with amazing speed, basically for determining mating behavior) on a subconscious level does not make it less powerful or significant. We like youthful skin, because it signals I’m healthy and mateable. That’s pretty much it. So anabolized skin looks good and anabolization can only occur as energy is inputted into the previously closed system. What we perceive as young beautiful skin is a result of the new tissue, connective and circulatory tissue that is being built up. When you put energy into the system called the skin, that energy is transferred, and it is essentially converted into matter The matter shows up as denser, healthier, more robust and vital tissue and support structures. Such as: more cells, especially fibroblasts. Now fibroblasts are truly amazing cells that produce important substances that are the hallmark of youthful anabolic skin. For example, they produce long strands of sugar which are called GAGs (glucose-amino-glycans) Usually these sugar chains are associated with a protein. These are referred to as proteoglycans, and they play an important role in the health of all biological systems including the skin. Because GAGs are usually PGs, we will be using these terms interchangeably. The unique structure of these macromolecules impart some interesting emergent properties. One of the more distinctive features of GAGs an PG, is their repeating units. They have repeating pieces. In other words, the chains are long strands composed of the same piece of molecular matter repeated over and over and over again. This repeating patter is called a polymer, which is simply a word to describe something composed of poly (many) of the same pieces. Substances like hyaluronic acid, which many people have heard of and others like dermatan and helparin, and keratan w(not keratin) which hardly anyone has heard of. These polymerized sugar chains can trap energy , the repeating patterns form a sort of cage that electrons are trapped and stored and released from. This electrical activation in proteoglycans makes them amazingly important signaling molecule that we are only now in the 2011 beginning (yes, beginning) to understand. Anyway they are said to be piezoelectric, which simply means that they release electricity when they are moved in an appropriate fashion. This electrical release acts as a ‘doorbell” to let the cell know that growth is required. This gives them a key role in the anabolic process. A second feature of GAGs is their powerful water-holding capacity. For example 1 gram of hyaluronic acid can hold a thousand grams of water . Or to put in a more relevant way, 1 teaspoonful can hold over a gallon of water. When the GAG swells it produces a gel like, spongy material., This makes them great shock absorbers and spongy support molecules.

The fibroblast also produces structural proteins (which also have polymer based piezoelectrical properties) like elastin, which as the name implies, keeps the skin elastic. Elastin levels drop significantly with age and this major feature of older, non-anabolic skin. Opening up the skin system and energizing it stimulates fibroblastic elastin production. Then there’s everybody’s favorite skin structural protein, collagen. Inputting energy in to previously closed system called the skin activates the production of fibroblastic collagen too. And that means younger, smoother and wrinkle-free skin. In fact, UNLESS you input energy into the skin you can’t get more elatin or collagen. It’s the only way. If you want more fibroblastic fibers, you must open the system by, “energizing” the skin. Then there’s the blood supply which also is built up as energy is inputted in to the skin and more blood means delivery of nutrients and hormones and oxygen to drive the entire anabolic system

Then there’s the keratinocytes which live a bit higher than the more fundamental dermal cells and structure we, have been talking about. Keratinocytes live in the higher ground called the epi-dermis (above the dermis). They are born on the lowest layers of the epi-dermis, called the stratum basale (base layer) and they migrate upward toward the uppermost surface layer, the stratum corneum (hard or horny layer) this upward migration is called turnover or transit time and it typically takes around weeks, when we’re young and vibrant and vital and more like 6-8 weeks as we get older. In fact a slowing down of transit time is one of the hallmark signs of skin aging. Keratinocytes and their movement are an important measure of skin health for several reasons. First of all, their abundance results in a thicker epidermis which is associated with healthy skin. The faster they are being born and moving upward the more robust the epidermis. Second, as the keratinocytes are moving upward they are gradually becoming flatter and “harder”. Ultimately when they end their journey at the stratum corneum they will be very flat and very hard. Thus, the term stratum “corneum”, which means hard (horny) in Latin. At this point they lose the moniker keratinocytes and are referred to as “corneo”-cytes. They accomplish this morphogenic feat by literally dumping their contents overboard. The jettisoned material then becomes functional as moisture factors. In other words, the faster and more vital the transit process, the more moisture factors are available for use as hydration support. The more “moisturized” the skin will be. Third, the movement upwards stimulated by energy input assures a constant turnover and invigoration of the skin. Cells will literally be newer and more youthful at all times when compared against “ non-energized” cells and the epidermis that they compose. Anabolization of keratinocytic tissue therefore means more moisture factors, thicker, healthier and newer, fresher, literally “younger” skin tissue!

The second law of DermoDynamics tells us that entropy always rules! Systems that are closed, be they sociological, molecular or biological are always in a state of entropy, breakdown, degradation of information and organization (remember the Rules of DermoDynamics hold in a closed system, our mission is to bypass or supersede these laws by opening up the system with energy and substances that guide/regulate energy into the proper chemistry.) In terms of societies, the inevitable degradation of a culture can only be staved off by the input of energy, typically in the form of new ideas or ways of being. Molecular systems that are closed have likewise no hop of regaining strucctue and coherence unless enery is likewiswe inputed thereby opening up the system Then there’s the decohertrence and breaksown that occure in our favorite sytem, US! And that’s what we call “aging”. Aging could be thought of as the biological manifestation of entropy, decay, basically the loss of structure. The body is in a constant state of decay, even when we are young and healthy. This breakdown process is called catabolism, (the opposite of anabolism). The only reason the catabolic process it slips past out awareness is because, for most of us, the anabolic process is predominant. It essentially makes up for the catabolic breakdown by (re-) building and in some cases hyper-rebuilding. However this process typically requires the input of energy and supportive structuring agents. When it comes to the skin, for must of us anyway these are provided from the foods we eat. Under ideal circumstances the foods that comprose our diet will be foods that are rich in substances that provide metabolic energy and provide substances “guide” that energy into the right chemical reactions. That’s why food selection is are so important for anti-aging. the biochemistry of food and nutrition has many implications in connection with the entropy (aging) process. Energy can can also be inputed into the biological system (the body) via stressful and challenging physical activity. As long as the stress is acute 9vs. chronic0 and there is adequate recovery period, this is the most powerful way to reverse or neutralize entropy. Weight lifting, running are physical examples of how acute challenges can stimulate growth and reverse entropy. Crossword puzzles, learnig instruments or languages have been shown to increase brain complexity and angiogenesis (blood vessel growth). Living in low oxygen environment have bigger liungs. As Nitzche said (“what doesn’t kill you, will make you stronger”)

The skin manifestations of entropy include dimunition of structural proteins, a decrease in fibroblastic activity, less GAGs, slower cell turnover, less lipids production all of this shaow up as dry thinning less that robust skin.

Fortunately the skin shows dramatic anti-entropic results when energy is inpuuted into it. Hundreds of studies that have been done over the past 50 yearshave shown that it is possible to demonstrate increases in every known marker of healthy when the skin is challenged appropriately. That means more collagen, elastin, blood supply, GAGs. Etc. In the manner described above in the first law, skin becomes healthier, younger, and anabolized. But once again we see to override the second law of entropy, energy MUST be put into the system.

The 3rd law of thermodynamics tells us that something is always happening. Systems, that are not at temperature of absolute zero, (which is almost all known systems) are always doing something. And there’s only one of two things that can be happening. Either building up, becoming more organized, coherent (anabolic) or breaking down, becoming less organized, decohering. It takes (an input of) energy to “go anabolic”, in other words to make anabolism dominate over catabolism. That’s because of the 2nd law which tells us that entropy, of which catabolism is it’s face always rules unless energy is inputted. Basically once again we see that Systems break down without inputs of energy. The third Law of Dermodynamics says that skin tissue will tend toward break down unless energy is inputted. It should be noted that from birth to roughly the mid twenties, the skin and that body in general are optimized for anabolism. Their biological machinery is operating a n efficiency level that makes great use of energy. Wasted energy is minimized and a great functionality is achieved. That’sa why when you’re young you can do anything and still be anabolic. It’s niot unususual for high anabolic specimins to smioke, drink lots of alcohol get little sleep and still maintain a buildimg up system.make very effeicent This means that they tend so positively toward growth that it take extraordinary circumastance to stop. This situation soon reverses, usually somewhere in the mid-twenties and at this point a catabolic reversal takes place. In other words break down supercedes building up and that’s when the visible signs of aging take place. Unless energy is put into the skin and the biological machine in general the second law will kick in and entropy will ensue. Remember, what we are talking about tis the increase in the markers of youth and a decrease in the markers of aging. Namely softer, more hydrated skin. Smoother tighter skin with less wrinkling. Helahtier more nourished tissue. Better protection from environemtal assault, and fater revery from wounds. Very interestingly most topical skin care stratagies and products prport to do these thing without addressing the energy needs of the skin. Remember, if the skin is energy deficient and/or is not making good use of the energy it has it will not be anabolic. Simply applying a product on the stratum corneum cannot change the quality of the skin unless somehow energy is being inputted.

From a topical perspective energy is inputted into the skin in two main fashions. Mechanical and Chemical. From a mechanical perspective, anabolism can be enhanced by disruption of the ski’s uppermost surface, the stratum corneum. This barrier perturbation initiates growth and repair biochemical processes. These are the same process are acting when the skin is younger and more anabolic. In other words simple carrier disruption reverses the catabolic, entropic, aging process. Instead breakdown you have buildup. Simply disrupting the barrier is anabolic anti-entropic and anti aging. This is much the same thing as when you trim the leaves back on your plants and you’re plants get nic and bushy. The second mechanism is chemical. This involves making the skin more acidic. Tyically the skin rests within a pH range of 4.5-6.5. In order to really have a significant effect on the skin, a product must nbe able to cause a drop in skin pH to 3 or so. Acidity can be likened to electrical stimulation. In fact acidity is literally a measurement of the movement of electrons i.s. electron activity. We call this electron activity “electricity’. Thus putting acids on the skin is like putting electricity ito the system. It’s electrifying the skin in essence and this in turn stimulates growth. The skin responds to the drop in pH (increase in acidity) by become more anabolic. The most common acids that are used topically are the alpha hydroxy acids. These include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and acetic acid. Each has it’s own specific characteristics but for the most part they all act in a similar fashion. The effectively drop the skins pH. What make the alpha hydroxy acids so effective is a secondary mechanism. The have a unique solvent effect of the connecting chemicals (glycoproteins) that keep corneocytes on the stratum corneum adhering. Thus they accomplish stimulation, energy input via two separate and distinct mechanisms. The drop in pH and the desmosome dissolving induction of barrier disruption

Posted by Ben Fuchs in Skin Care

Treating Dry Skin From the Inside Out

By Ben Fuchs | Pharmacist Ben

Human skin is not supposed to be dry. Yet despite this biochemical fact, billions of consumer dollars are spent every year on product that are supposed to moisturize the skin.

Treating Dry SkinAs someone who has been formulating skin care products a skin products for over 25 years, I can tell you there is no possible way a topically applied product, which is typically composed of water, oil, wax and some miscellaneous chemicals, can cause any changes in skin moisture content. Miniaturization is strictly the job of nutrients that are found in foods and supplements.

If you have dry skin, you’re better off spending your hard-earned dollars on Essential Fatty Acids, Vitamin A and Vitamin C instead of topical skin care products. You’ll be helping improve your skin’s condition the way nature nature intended you to and you’ll get the additional benefits that come along with strategic nutritional supplementation.

Posted by Ben Fuchs in Skin Care